Saturday 26 April 2014

Fashion and Identity: A Study of Orphan Black

Grayson Graves

  It is often of the opinion that fashion as a means of expressing oneself is a shallow and superficial way of presenting yourself to the world. It has negative connotations associated with it because it buys into the idea of consumerism and societal expectations. But what happens when we break those rules? 

  Fashion has always been, for me, a very interesting way of expressing identity. The very notion that clothes are an expression of who we are is fascinating. The bow in your hair, the studs on your shoes, the shade of lipstick you chose to wear are like words on pages of a book and they are telling your story, allowing people to know a little something about you before you even open your mouth. Articles of clothing can enhance who we think we are or even helps us become the person we want to be. Make you stand out or even help you blend in. The possibilities of expression are endless. 

  Last year BBCAmerica aired a small show about clones called Orphan Black that twisted the idea of identity on its head. We watched in awe as one woman played several different characters convincingly. Although it has everything to do with the talent that is Tatiana Maslany, a real tour de force, it is interesting to dissect the choices made by the costuming department for each character and how it pertains to identity. A quick study of the characters shows that what we choose to wear has everything to do with the identity we want to assume.

Sarah Manning 
The first character we meet is Sarah Manning. She is wearing a leather jacket, cut off shorts, knee highs and combat boots. We can already tell before the character ever speaks that she has a rebellious streak. She makes interesting fashion choices which tells us that from time to time she enjoys being noticed. She isn't afraid to take risks in fashion as well as in her day to day life.  Her leather jacket and combat boots show a side of Sarah that is tough and ready for action. She is adaptable and dresses to be on the move.  Within minutes of the first episodes we meet the second clone, Beth Childs, a girl who looks exactly like Sarah. As Sarah's life spirals out of control she assumes the identity of Beth in order to settle some things in her own life and to help more clones along the way. Despite the characters being identical (played by the same actress) we see Sarah go through a makeover montage to become Beth Childs. The show is quick to jump into one of its themes, identity. It is repeated time and time again. There is no one like me. I am one of a kind. I am unique. We learn that this is true when we begin to meet the other clones and I would argue how the costume department has chosen to present them. 

Alison Hendrix 
The next clone we meet and one of the most interesting clones is Alison Hendrix. Soccer Mom Sarah is portrayed as a suburban mom of two. When we first meet her she seems put together and just like her outfits the act is just a mask. Sure it might be reminiscent of a life before the clones but Alison is just holding on. Her outfits are put together, thought out and cookie cutter. They are what is expected of her in her community. Alison Hendrix probably has an outfit for every occasion, coaching soccer or figure skating, community socials or even learning to shoot. The interesting thing about Alison's wardrobe is that it is full of pastels. In contrast to Sarah, who wears a lot of black, Alison can be found most often in white.  A colour associated with hope and innocence Alison is anything but. Out of all of the clones Alison tends to act abruptly and dangerously when she is cornered. The soft colours are meant to distract and convince the people in her life that she is simple suburban Alison. What is interesting is that sometimes white is viewed to symbolize new beginnings. For Alison's character this is true because she is actively trying to start fresh from some of the choices she made in season 1. The more concerning implication of the white colour as a symbol is that of sacrifice. It might be a look into Alison's future but it is also indicative of some of the sacrifice's she has made in her personal life and in terms of her sanity.

Cosima Niehaus 
Through Alison we meet Cosima Niehaus, resident geek and universally known as the hot one. Cosima's fashion choices are filled with bold colours and bold patterns. The implications behind her wardrobe tell us a number of things about her. We quickly learn that Cosima goes to school away from family and friends. We learn that she is lonely. Her clothes are a way for her to express herself and stand out. A way for her to grab people's attention and make friends. Upon learning about the clones Cosima might be struggling with her identity and her need to be unique, to be one of a kind because she understands the biology. The interesting choice for Cosima are the glasses. They separate her from all of the other clones and raise questions about the science behind all of the girls. The bold patterns she mixes and matches are indicative of her personality and her chaotic life, her need to experiment and try
things even if they don't work. The colours that surround Cosima are warm and welcoming which is also very indicative of her character. She is charming and personable. The colour that stands out for Cosima is red. This colour is often associated with passion and love, words we would ascribe to her personality. She is passionate in every aspect of her life, in science and in love. We could view Cosima as logical and scientific but often times we also see Cosima be lead by her heart.  

Rachel Duncan 
Rachel is one of the newest clones to be introduced and although we don't know a lot about her, the mystery surrounding her has kept the audience interested and engaged. Tatiana's brilliant performance shows us a character who is cold, stoic and serious, a major contrast to all of the other clones we have met. Her wardrobe is also indicative of her character. It is tailored, sharp and ready for success. It exudes power. The neutral palette of her wardrobe reminds us that we know very little about Rachel. We don't  her motivations, we don't know very much about her emotional capacity because like her colour palette she is very neutral in ton and expression. Her neutrality commands our attention, demands we seek her approval and makes her a powerful player in the game and leaves us wanting more.






Through the dynamic performances delivered by Tatiana Maslany and in part to the artistic direction of the show we are presented with several representations and engaging female characters. The show reminds us that a woman can be a bitch, a lover, a child, a mother, a sinner or a saint. 

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